Where to Stay
FES
Fes was the old capital of Morocco before Rabat took the crown. Our Fes hostel was close to the train station, so we bused into the old Medina. The oldest Medina in Morocco, it’s a great place to buy artefacts and Moroccan rugs, and the narrow lanes of tanneries are a memorable sight. A guy from our hostel became a ‘guide’ for us as we headed into the Medina after dark, as it’s pretty crazy once you start haggling! If you go off season, at the start of November, you may be able to haggle for a real bargain as all their bumper trade is done over summer. Also, the less interested you appear in an item, the better the price becomes, so use this tactic to your advantage.
RabatThe capital city is very open and clean, and nothing like the rest of Morocco. It’s good to stay here if you need a day of calm, as it’s fairly Westernized, with elegant tree-lined boulevards. The Royal Palace and Mosque is the main attraction here, with fine examples of Islamic architecture. Le Tour Hassan is also a famous landmark. This beautifully carved minaret was begun in 1195, and towers at 44m over the city. For a bit of peace and quiet, head to the intricate Andalusian Gardens, where Moroccan women flock to escape the heat. The crumbling Merenid necropolis of Chellah and the ancient Roman city of Sala Colonia are some of the city’s most evocative sights – with few tourist crowds, you can wander through ruins overgrown with fruit trees.
Marrakech
This city is an assault on the senses, especially if you stay in a hostel at the front of the Main Square, Jemaa el Fna (try the Riad Jomana for an authentic Moroccan guesthouse). In terms of sights, visit the vast minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque, the crumbling El Badi Palace, and the Ben Youssef Medersa, a riot of tiles and carvings. Otherwise, the maze of souks are the main draw here – make sure you check out the night food markets for a cheap feast of authentic cuisine!
To escape the hustle and bustle, check out the ‘Terrace Panoramique’ (turn right from the square and look above!) – the restaurants and cafes on top of the buildings are ideal for watching the world go by, while snake charmers, monkeys, and acrobats run amok in the Square below. Up here, drink your sweet mint tea and enjoy the views of the Atlas Mountains.
Essaouira
This is a pretty port town with a big stretch of beach. Jimi Hendrix used to hang out here, and it has always been very bohemian, laid back and popular with backpackers. Most tourists come from Marrakesh, whihc is only three hours away by bus. Down the coast from here is Agadir which is basically set up for tourists. Essouira is heaps cooler, and in between here and Agadir are some of the best surf beaches you will find in Morocco – try Sidi Kaouki or Safi.
In June, the Gnaoua World Music Festival comes to town, bringing with it thousands of music fans and some out-there music. Loved by famous fans as diverse as Mick Jagger and Orson Welles, there are nine stages to choose from.
At the moment lots of money is being put into regenerating the town, with several new bars, restaurants, renovated accommodations and Riads. Get there before it changes completely and loses some of its charm.
For souvenirs, there are some great drum and Djembe shops, which sell lots of beautiful wooden carvings and knick knacks, made from all the off cuts from the boat building.
On the main stretch of beach, you can ride camels, horses and quad bikes. There’s also some excellent open air combined restaurants towards the port, and they all serve seafood fresh that day. Food in general is great here – the tagines are some of the best I have ever tasted.
You can still find very cheap and simple accommodation here, but for $25-35 a night you will get something quite nice. Try the Essaouira hostel with its boho bar and pretty central garden.
Chefchaouen
Right up in the hills in the Rif Mountains, there is such a relaxed vibe here. All the buildings in central Chef are painted beautiful shades of blue – and the Pension Souika is no different. It’s very calming, cooling and a little surreal…
Chefchaouen also has a predominant leather trade and there are a lot of shops that make an interesting array of bags, shoes and sandals.
Make sure you visit the little abandoned church on the hill – go up there for great views of the town.
Tours
From Marrakech you can organize tours and trips out into the Sahara desert, which is a must – you cad sleep under the stars in a Berber tent, ride camels across the desert at sunset, watch the sun rise over the dunes, and drive through the Atlas Mountains. All tours on this route stay in the same places, so there is a chance to meet heaps of people, and food, petrol, and accommodation are usually included in the price.Look out for tours where you sleep in Berber tents in the Sahara Desert. The ‘staff’ here cook for you and host a big musical jam session, playing their drums around the fire and getting you involved in a Berber sing along!
Drinking
Morocco is a predominantly Muslim country, and so dry. Alcohol is usually only available in restaurants, bars, supermarkets, hotels and discos. As a rule, alcohol is easier to find in backpacker-friendly places like Essaouira, or in supermarkets out of town.If you don’t want alcohol, you can drink freshly squeezed orange juice or fresh mint tea for only a few cents.
As a rule, do not drink the tap water in Morocco, because you might get an upset stomach. Bottled water is widely available.
Any traveller will be offered mint tea, or as locals like to call it ‘Moroccan whiskey’. Often this is a chance to lure you into a shop, but it is polite to accept. Before drinking look the host in the eye and say ‘bi saha raha’ – which means ‘enjoy and relax’.
Food
It’s really easy to eat cheaply and well in Morocco – the average meal will be around US $5 for a simple Moroccan curry and flatbread or roast chicken and rice in a restaurant. Even cheaper are street stalls and fast food shops. You can get steamed broad beans, roasted nuts and barbecued corn on the cob on the street, and hot roasted chicken or huge sandwiches stuffed with french fries and mayonnaise from Rotisserie shops. Another cheap meal is Harira – a soup of lentils, chick peas, tomatoes and vegetables, served with bread.
Make sure you try a tagine, a spicy stew of meat and vegetables served with heaps of couscous, or Pastilla, thin pieces of flaky dough layered with sweet and spiced meat, almond paste, and dusted with icing sugar. Typical Berber dishes include Kaliya, a dish of lamb, tomatoes, bell peppers and onions.Transport
A popular way of getting to Morocco is from Tarifa, on the southern tip of Spain. A one way high speed Ferry service is roughly $53 and takes 35mins. Entry point is the port town of Tangier. Tarifa is great for windsurfing and attracts a large crowd. Algeciras is also an exit point if you don’t wish to travel to the southern tip.It’s quite common, and surprisingly cheap to get cabs between cities – e.g. Tangier to Chef, or Marrak to Essaouira – if you split the cost. Otherwise, it is quite easy to get around by bus. Supertours and CTM, the main bus companies charge for luggage, depending on what you have, but the service is quick. If you are in a hurry, try to take a Supertours bus as they take make fewer stops.
Trains are fine to catch, and you will sit in cabins. If you have food and drink be sure to offer it around to everyone, especially if they are Moroccan, as it is the custom.
Money
The local currency is the Moroccan dirham (Dh or MAD), which is divided into 100 centimes. Only local currency is officially accepted in Morocco, so it’s virtually impossible to obtain local currency outside the country. Luckily exchange rates are the same at all banks and official exchanges, as required by law. To exchange your money, find a bank, dedicated exchange office, or major post office. Cash machine/ATMs are usually in the modern ‘ville nouvelle’ shopping districts of big cities – but make sure it accepts foreign cards before you put your card in!Ramadan
The biggest religious event on the Moroccan calendar is the month of Ramadan, during which Muslims fast during the daytime and feast at night. The dates are August 11 – September 9th for 2010, and August 1st – 30th for 2011.This shouldn’t affect travellers too much, as the restrictions don’t apply to non-Muslims. But it is respectful to refrain from eating, drinking or smoking in public during this time. Most restaurants are closed for lunch and things generally slow down. At the end of the month is the holiday of Eid al-Fitr, when practically everything closes for about a week and the roads are packed as everybody heads back to their home village.
Advice for Women
My top tips:
It’s unusual for women to be seen traveling alone in Morocco, so some single women may find themselves being stared at or asked questions by locals. On public transport, single girls may find Moroccan women try to look after you – just remember these actions are all out of a motherly instinct or concern rather than anything threatening.As a Muslim country, women should respect the culture and dress accordingly – wear long trousers, skirts and long sleeved shirts. A shawl around your shoulders or over your head will also prevent you from getting harassed in the more manic cities. Blonder girls especially will find they get a lot of attention at the souks!
Note that a women traveling alone may feel more comfortable in a pastry shop or restaurant rather than a cafe, as these are traditionally reserved for men.
Both women and men should check before entering a Mosque in Morocco – some do not allow foreigners or non-Muslims of any sex inside.
Hammam Etiquette
If you want a bit of pampering on the road, a Hammam (a type of steam bath) is an authentic and dirt cheap alternative to a hotel spa. Stripping off in a public bath can seem a little daunting, but going to a Hammam is a fun and relaxing experience, although it does have its own rules of etiquette. Just remember these rules:
1. Bring dark underwear with you, and a dry pair to change into afterwards.
2. Bring your normal bath stuff with you – soap, shampoo, scrubbing mitt and towel.
3. Once inside, you collect hot and cold water in buckets. Mix the buckets for temperature and pour them on yourself as you wash.
4. Once you have paid your entrance fee, remember to tip the person who looks after your belongings with a couple of dirhams.
5. This is not one for couples – men and women take their Hammam seperately!
Tags : Hostel, Stay, Backpacker